Free lessonBorders: right plant, right place · lesson 9 of 10

The border year

Staking, deadheading, the Chelsea chop, cutting back or leaving for winter, and dividing perennials.

Key points

StakingEarly in spring, before plants flop: pea sticks or grow-through supports, hidden by leaves.
Chelsea chopEnd of May: cut late-flowering perennials (sedums, heleniums, phlox, echinaceas) by up to half; front half only to spread flowering.
AutumnCut back mushy and diseased plants; leave seedheads and grasses for wildlife until late winter, then cut down before new growth.
DividingEvery few years when the centre dies: spring or autumn for summer flowerers; replant young outer pieces with 3–5 shoots, same depth.

Summary

WhenJob
Early springCut down old stems; stake; divide; mulch
End of MayChelsea chop
SummerDeadhead; water new plants
AutumnCut back mushy and diseased plants; divide; plant; mulch
WinterLeave seedheads and grasses standing

Quick check

When should tall perennials be staked?
  1. After they have fallen over
  2. Early, before they need it
  3. Only in winter
  4. Never: staking weakens them
Answer: B. Plants grow up through the supports and hide them.
What does the Chelsea chop do?
  1. Shorter, bushier plants
  2. It kills the plant
  3. It makes plants taller
  4. It stops them flowering again, for good
Answer: A. Cut by up to half at the end of May.
When dividing a perennial, which part do you replant?
  1. The old, woody centre
  2. Only the roots, without shoots
  3. The young outer pieces
  4. The whole clump, unchanged
Answer: C. The centre is the oldest and weakest.

In your garden

  • Buy pea sticks or supports before spring.
  • Mark a sedum or phlox for the Chelsea chop.
  • Note any clumps with a dead centre, ready to divide.

Video transcript

A border changes through the year, and a few jobs at the right time keep it looking its best. In this lesson: staking, deadheading, the Chelsea chop, tidying for winter, and dividing perennials.

Tall perennials with big flowers often flop after rain or wind, so stake them early in spring, before they need it. Twiggy pea sticks pushed in around a clump, or metal grow-through supports, work far better than tying a plant to a cane after it has fallen. Plants grow up through them, and the supports are soon hidden by leaves.

At the end of May, around the Chelsea Flower Show, cut back some late-flowering perennials, such as sedums, heleniums, phlox and echinaceas, by up to half. They grow back shorter and bushier, need less staking, and give more, smaller flowers a little later. Cut just the front of a clump, and you spread the flowering over a longer season.

In autumn, cut back perennials that collapse into mush, and anything diseased. But leave plants with good seedheads and grasses until late winter or early spring. They look beautiful with frost on them, feed birds, and shelter insects through the winter. Cut everything down before the new growth starts in spring.

Every few years, clump-forming perennials get crowded, with a dead centre and fewer flowers. Divide summer-flowering ones in spring or autumn. Lift the clump with a fork, then pull it apart by hand, prise it with two forks back to back, or cut tough crowns with a spade. Replant the young outer pieces, with three to five healthy shoots each, at the same depth, and water them in.

This is one of 10 lessons in Borders: right plant, right place

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